服(fu)裝(zhuang)廠加工(gong)服(fu)裝(zhuang)時，對服(fu)裝(zhuang)部(bu)件(jian)或成衣(yi)作熱處(chu)理的工(gong)藝就是熨(yun)燙。

　　作用

　　熨(yun)燙的作用有：①平整(zheng)，消除織(zhi)(zhi)物褶縐。②整(zheng)緯(wei)，矯正織(zhi)(zhi)物染整(zheng)工藝中形(xing)成(cheng)的緯(wei)向絲(si)綹歪斜，使織(zhi)(zhi)物復原，以(yi)利裁剪、縫(feng)制(zhi)。③預伸縮，防止衣(yi)片(pian)在縫(feng)制(zhi)中因受(shou)熱而產生伸縮現象。④變(bian)形(xing)，利用織(zhi)(zhi)物可(ke)塑性，將(jiang)織(zhi)(zhi)物局部變(bian)形(xing)，促(cu)使衣(yi)片(pian)形(xing)態由(you)直變(bian)弧或由(you)弧變(bian)直，以(yi)便加工出合(he)體的成(cheng)衣(yi)。⑤整(zheng)形(xing)，對(dui)成(cheng)衣(yi)外形(xing)進(jin)行修(xiu)改整(zheng)理，彌補(bu)工藝操作中的不(bu)足，使外觀平挺、貼(tie)服、不(bu)外翹。

　　條件

　　熨(yun)燙需(xu)具備(bei)溫度(du)(du)(du)(du)、濕(shi)度(du)(du)(du)(du)、壓力三方面(mian)的(de)條件。其中(zhong)溫度(du)(du)(du)(du)是(shi)關鍵(jian)。按各類(lei)織(zhi)物的(de)性能特點，使外加(jia)(jia)的(de)輸熱(re)度(du)(du)(du)(du)與織(zhi)物固有的(de)耐熱(re)度(du)(du)(du)(du)要(yao)相適應。溫度(du)(du)(du)(du)過(guo)(guo)高會損壞(huai)織(zhi)物，過(guo)(guo)低則(ze)熨(yun)燙無效(xiao)。通常(chang)掌握的(de)熨(yun)燙溫度(du)(du)(du)(du)：合成纖維90～160℃(其中(zhong)錦綸90℃左(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)右(you))，絲類(lei)120℃左(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)右(you)，羊(yang)毛(mao)類(lei)160℃左(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(加(jia)(jia)濕(shi)布200℃左(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)右(you))，棉布類(lei)180℃左(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)右(you)，麻類(lei)190℃左(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)右(you)。

　　熨燙壓力的大小(xiao)和時間(jian)長短(duan)，需根據衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)厚薄和原料(liao)(liao)固有性能(neng)而定。一般薄型(xing)質(zhi)松(song)的衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)所需壓力較小(xiao)，熨燙時間(jian)也短(duan)，厚型(xing)質(zhi)密衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)反(fan)之(zhi)。織物不能(neng)直接放(fang)在案面(mian)上(shang)熨燙，需墊薄毯，毛料(liao)(liao)產(chan)品還需上(shang)蓋濕布，以保持(chi)衣(yi)服整潔而不產(chan)生反(fan)射(she)光。

　　方法

　　熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)方法主要有：①推、歸、拔。是加工毛(mao)料(liao)服(fu)裝的(de)(de)傳(chuan)統熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)技法，能(neng)使平面(mian)狀(zhuang)衣片(pian)產(chan)生(sheng)立(li)體(ti)(ti)造型(xing)，以及服(fu)裝貼體(ti)(ti)平整的(de)(de)效果。推與歸交互進(jin)(jin)行。推，是在衣片(pian)的(de)(de)胸、背、臀(tun)等(deng)部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)(wei)(wei)進(jin)(jin)行推燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，使織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)隆起(qi)(qi);歸，是根據人體(ti)(ti)凸(tu)起(qi)(qi)的(de)(de)邊(bian)緣部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)(wei)(wei)，將(jiang)(jiang)衣片(pian)相應部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)進(jin)(jin)行聚集(ji)歸縮熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，使邊(bian)緣長(chang)度縮短，使凸(tu)起(qi)(qi)部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)(wei)(wei)效果更顯著(zhu)。拔，是對衣片(pian)需要延展的(de)(de)部(bu)(bu)(bu)分，將(jiang)(jiang)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)拔開(伸(shen)長(chang))熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，通常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)衣片(pian)的(de)(de)腰部(bu)(bu)(bu)、袖(xiu)肘、領(ling)(ling)腳和褲片(pian)中襠(膝(xi)位(wei)(wei)(wei))等(deng)部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)(wei)(wei)。②磨燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)力(li)多次(ci)往返重復熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。多用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)胸襯和胸顙頂(ding)端燙(tang)(tang)(tang)服(fu)。③壓(ya)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)力(li)壓(ya)住熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)進(jin)(jin)行熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，使織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)定(ding)型(xing)并燙(tang)(tang)(tang)薄。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)衣襟(jin)、衣角等(deng)。④烘燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)懸空不(bu)直接(jie)接(jie)觸織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)傳(chuan)溫方式(shi)(shi)進(jin)(jin)行熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)服(fu)裝的(de)(de)領(ling)(ling)、駁(bo)領(ling)(ling)、下擺(bai)等(deng)有角部(bu)(bu)(bu)位(wei)(wei)(wei)，使之不(bu)外翹。⑤軋燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。運用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)外側，沿縫(feng)緝(ji)的(de)(de)圓弧(hu)，借(jie)助鐵凳(燙(tang)(tang)(tang)肩部(bu)(bu)(bu)、袖(xiu)窿的(de)(de)凳狀(zhuang)工具(ju))熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)上(shang)衣的(de)(de)袖(xiu)窿弧(hu)、西(xi)褲的(de)(de)襠弧(hu)等(deng)。⑥吸燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。在織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)上(shang)覆蓋濕布，高溫快速輕浮(fu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)厚呢絨面(mian)的(de)(de)毛(mao)茸，以及消除水花、亮光(guang)等(deng)。⑦分燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。運用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)尖部(bu)(bu)(bu)將(jiang)(jiang)疊合(he)的(de)(de)緝(ji)縫(feng)分開熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。⑧扣(kou)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。將(jiang)(jiang)縫(feng)口或褶邊(bian)折轉扣(kou)住熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)貼袋縫(feng)口或各類褶邊(bian)等(deng)。⑨坐燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)前側將(jiang)(jiang)緝(ji)縫(feng)一邊(bian)定(ding)向燙(tang)(tang)(tang)倒。多用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)夾里(li)褶縫(feng)口熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。⑩翻燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。部(bu)(bu)(bu)件(jian)經(jing)反面(mian)縫(feng)緝(ji)后翻出于(yu)正面(mian)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)袋蓋、衣領(ling)(ling)、門襟(jin)、里(li)襟(jin)等(deng)部(bu)(bu)(bu)件(jian)。粘(zhan)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)。刮漿熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)式(shi)(shi)粘(zhan)合(he)襯(見服(fu)裝材料(liao))熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，起(qi)(qi)粘(zhan)合(he)作用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)。

　　工具

　　熨(yun)(yun)斗是服裝(zhuang)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)的(de)(de)(de)主要(yao)工具。中(zhong)(zhong)國漢代已有熨(yun)(yun)斗，又稱(cheng)“火(huo)斗”，為裝(zhuang)炭(tan)火(huo)的(de)(de)(de)勺形物。近代熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)是烙鐵和以(yi)(yi)炭(tan)為熱源(yuan)利用(yong)風箱催溫的(de)(de)(de)炭(tan)熨(yun)(yun)斗(俗(su)稱(cheng)炭(tan)火(huo)輪(lun))。20世紀50年代起較普遍使用(yong)電熨(yun)(yun)斗。50年代后期，中(zhong)(zhong)國第一(yi)代“三(san)領(ling)機(ji)”研制成功，用(yong)于襯衫領(ling)的(de)(de)(de)粘(zhan)合和弧定型(xing);英國發(fa)明以(yi)(yi)熱壓方(fang)式粘(zhan)合可(ke)熔(rong)性襯布的(de)(de)(de)專用(yong)粘(zhan)合機(ji)。粘(zhan)合機(ji)已發(fa)展成能控(kong)時、控(kong)壓、控(kong)溫的(de)(de)(de)滾壓和平壓式兩種(zhong)，成為與縫制新(xin)工藝配套的(de)(de)(de)新(xin)型(xing)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)工具。對半成品(pin)和成品(pin)的(de)(de)(de)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，已應(ying)用(yong)模壓、充(chong)氣、多(duo)工位回(hui)轉等(deng)蒸汽(qi)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)機(ji)和衣片(pian)歸(gui)拔(ba)機(ji)。一(yi)套西服蒸汽(qi)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)設備可(ke)完成熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)衣袖、衣身、立(li)體整形等(deng)12種(zhong)最終熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)和分縫、歸(gui)拔(ba)等(deng)18種(zhong)中(zhong)(zhong)間熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)，使產品(pin)干燥(zao)、燙(tang)(tang)(tang)跡定型(xing)、無亮光。現代熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)新(xin)設備、新(xin)工藝，極大(da)地(di)提高了產品(pin)的(de)(de)(de)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)質量。

　　服(fu)裝廠(chang)在制成一件衣(yi)服(fu)，熨(yun)燙(tang)整(zheng)理衣(yi)服(fu)也是(shi)很重要的(de)，一件經(jing)過熨(yun)燙(tang)和未(wei)經(jing)過處理的(de)，差別是(shi)很大的(de)。