針織服裝(zhuang)大都是以棉和化纖棉紗(sha)為原料，其特點是柔軟、有彈(dan)性(xing)、透氣(qi)、吸汗、穿著舒適，如運動服和內衣(yi)等(deng)。針織服裝(zhuang)作(zuo)為服裝(zhuang)除了有和梭織服裝(zhuang)的(de)共性(xing)方面外，還具(ju)有其特性(xing)。
工藝流(liu)程：
紡(fang)紗→編織→驗布→裁剪→縫(feng)制→整(zheng)燙→檢驗
(一)紡紗
紡紗(sha)(sha)的目的是使(shi)進廠的棉紗(sha)(sha)卷繞成(cheng)一(yi)定(ding)結構與規格的卷裝筒子，以適合(he)針織(zhi)生產之用(yong)。在(zai)紡紗(sha)(sha)過程中要消(xiao)除紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)上(shang)(shang)存(cun)在(zai)的一(yi)些疵點，同時使(shi)紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)具(ju)有一(yi)定(ding)的均勻的張力，對紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)進行必要的輔助處理，如上(shang)(shang)蠟(la)、上(shang)(shang)油(you)等(deng)，以改(gai)善紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)的編織(zhi)性(xing)能，提(ti)高生產效率(lv)和改(gai)善產品質量。
(二)編織
編織(zhi)是通過(guo)織(zhi)機使紗線(xian)組(zu)織(zhi)成線(xian)卷(juan)互相串(chuan)套而成為織(zhi)物的過(guo)程。這也是針織(zhi)服(fu)裝(zhuang)和梭織(zhi)服(fu)裝(zhuang)的根(gen)本區別。
編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)方(fang)法可(ke)(ke)分(fen)(fen)(fen)為(wei)(wei)(wei)緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)和(he)(he)經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)兩大(da)(da)類(lei)(lei)，作(zuo)為(wei)(wei)(wei)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)用(yong)衣的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面料大(da)(da)都(dou)是緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)。緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)是將一根(gen)(gen)或數根(gen)(gen)紗(sha)線由緯(wei)(wei)(wei)向喂入(ru)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)工作(zuo)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)上，使(shi)紗(sha)線順序地彎曲成圈，且加(jia)以(yi)串套而形成緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)。用(yong)來編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)這種(zhong)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)機(ji)器(qi)稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)。緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)對加(jia)工紗(sha)線的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)種(zhong)類(lei)(lei)和(he)(he)線密(mi)度有較大(da)(da)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)適應(ying)性，所生產(chan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)品(pin)種(zhong)也(ye)甚(shen)為(wei)(wei)(wei)廣泛。緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)品(pin)種(zhong)繁多(duo)，既能(neng)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)成各(ge)種(zhong)組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)內外(wai)衣用(yong)坯布，又(you)可(ke)(ke)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)成單(dan)件的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)成形和(he)(he)部分(fen)(fen)(fen)成形產(chan)品(pin)，同時(shi)緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)工藝過程和(he)(he)機(ji)器(qi)結(jie)構比(bi)(bi)較簡單(dan)，易于(yu)操作(zuo)，機(ji)器(qi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)生產(chan)效(xiao)率比(bi)(bi)較高，因此，緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)在(zai)(zai)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)工業中比(bi)(bi)重(zhong)較大(da)(da)。緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)類(lei)(lei)型很多(duo)，一般都(dou)以(yi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)床數量，針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)床形式(shi)和(he)(he)用(yong)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)類(lei)(lei)別(bie)(bie)等(deng)(deng)來區(qu)分(fen)(fen)(fen)。經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)是由一組或幾組平行排(pai)列的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)紗(sha)線分(fen)(fen)(fen)別(bie)(bie)排(pai)列在(zai)(zai)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)上，同時(shi)沿縱向編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)而成。用(yong)來編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)這種(zhong)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)機(ji)器(qi)稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)機(ji)。一般經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)脫散性和(he)(he)延伸(shen)性比(bi)(bi)緯(wei)(wei)(wei)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)小，其結(jie)構和(he)(he)外(wai)形的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)穩定性較好(hao)，它的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)用(yong)途也(ye)較廣，除可(ke)(ke)生產(chan)衣用(yong)面料外(wai)，還可(ke)(ke)生產(chan)蚊帳、窗(chuang)簾、花邊(bian)裝飾織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)、醫用(yong)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)等(deng)(deng)等(deng)(deng)，經(jing)(jing)編(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)(bian)機(ji)同樣也(ye)可(ke)(ke)以(yi)以(yi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)床、織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)針(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)型來進行區(qu)分(fen)(fen)(fen)。
(三)驗布(bu)
由于(yu)坯(pi)布(bu)(bu)的(de)質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)直(zhi)接關系到成品(pin)的(de)質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)和產量(liang)，因此裁剪(jian)(jian)前，必須根(gen)據裁剪(jian)(jian)用(yong)布(bu)(bu)配料單，核對匹數、尺(chi)寸、密度(du)、批號、線密度(du)是否符(fu)合(he)要求，在驗布(bu)(bu)時對坯(pi)布(bu)(bu)按標(biao)準逐一進行檢驗，對影響成品(pin)質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)的(de)各類疵點，例(li)如色(se)花(hua)、漏針(zhen)、破洞、油污等須做好標(biao)記及質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)記錄。
(四)裁(cai)剪
針(zhen)織(zhi)服(fu)裝(zhuang)裁剪的主(zhu)要工藝過程：
斷料(liao)→借疵→劃樣→裁剪(jian)→捆扎(zha)。
借疵是提高產品(pin)質量、節省用料的重要一環，斷(duan)料過程中盡可(ke)能(neng)將坯布上的疵點借到裁耗(hao)部位或縫合處。
針織面料按(an)經向(xiang)網目輔(fu)料裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)，裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)一般采用套(tao)裁(cai)(cai)方式，常用的(de)有(you)平套(tao)、互套(tao)、鑲套(tao)、拼接套(tao)、剖縫套(tao)等(deng)。
針織面料在裁剪中(zhong)應注意以下事項：
(1)不要將有折疊痕跡處和(he)有印花的邊(bian)緣處使(shi)用在服裝的明顯(xian)部位。
(2)剪裁中(zhong)不要使用錐孔標(biao)記(ji)，以免影響成(cheng)衣的(de)外觀(guan)。
(五)縫(feng)制(zhi)
我國針(zhen)織工業現有(you)縫(feng)制(zhi)工藝及(ji)設備是(shi)以中(zhong)、高速平縫(feng)機(ji)(俗稱(cheng)“平車(che)”)、中(zhong)、高速包縫(feng)機(ji)(俗稱(cheng)“拷克車(che)”)、繃縫(feng)車(che)等(deng)縫(feng)紉機(ji)機(ji)型(xing)為主。
由(you)于針織織物是由(you)線圈串(chuan)套組成，裁剪后(hou)的(de)衣片邊緣(yuan)容易(yi)發生脫散，故(gu)應先將(jiang)衣片邊緣(yuan)包(bao)縫(feng)(俗稱(cheng)“拷(kao)邊”)后(hou)再(zai)用平縫(feng)機等縫(feng)制(zhi)加工。平縫(feng)機和包(bao)縫(feng)機是縫(feng)制(zhi)針織時(shi)裝的(de)主要機種。在縫(feng)制(zhi)過程中一般(ban)要注意(yi)掌(zhang)握以(yi)下要點。
1.縫(feng)跡(ji) 由(you)于(yu)針(zhen)織面料的(de)(de)織物具有(you)縱向和橫向的(de)(de)延(yan)伸(shen)性(即彈性)的(de)(de)特點及邊緣(yuan)線圈(quan)易脫散的(de)(de)缺點，故縫(feng)制針(zhen)織時裝的(de)(de)縫(feng)跡(ji)應滿足：
(1)縫(feng)跡應具有與針織織物相適應的拉伸性和強力。
(2)縫(feng)跡(ji)應(ying)能防止織物(wu)線圈的脫散。
(3)適當控(kong)(kong)制縫(feng)(feng)(feng)跡的(de)密(mi)度(du)。如厚型(xing)(xing)織(zhi)(zhi)物的(de)平(ping)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)跡密(mi)度(du)控(kong)(kong)制在9～10針(zhen)/2cm，包縫(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)跡密(mi)度(du)為(wei)6～7針(zhen)/2cm，薄型(xing)(xing)織(zhi)(zhi)物的(de)平(ping)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)跡密(mi)度(du)控(kong)(kong)制在10～11針(zhen)/2cm，包縫(feng)(feng)(feng)機(ji)縫(feng)(feng)(feng)跡密(mi)度(du)為(wei)7～8針(zhen)/2cm。
2.縫線 一般純棉(mian)針(zhen)織(zhi)面(mian)料(liao)采(cai)用(yong)9.8tex×4或7.4tex×3的純棉(mian)及滌棉(mian)混紡(fang)線，化纖(xian)針(zhen)織(zhi)面(mian)料(liao)采(cai)用(yong)7.8tex×2的彈力錦綸(lun)絲和5tex×6的錦綸(lun)線。縫線要(yao)達到下列質量要(yao)求(qiu)：
(1)縫(feng)紉(ren)機(ji)用純(chun)棉線(xian)(縫(feng)線(xian))應采用精梳棉線(xian)，它具(ju)有較高的(de)強度和均勻度。
(2)縫線(xian)應具(ju)有一(yi)定的(de)彈性(xing)，可防止在縫紉過程中不會由于(yu)線(xian)的(de)曲折或壓擠發生斷線(xian)現(xian)象。
(3)縫(feng)線必須具有(you)柔軟性。
(4)縫線(xian)(xian)必須條干均勻光滑，減少縫線(xian)(xian)在線(xian)(xian)槽和針孔中受阻或(huo)摩擦，避(bi)免造成斷線(xian)(xian)和線(xian)(xian)跡張力不勻等疵(ci)點。
3.縫(feng)(feng)針 縫(feng)(feng)紉機針又稱縫(feng)(feng)針、機針。為了達到縫(feng)(feng)針與縫(feng)(feng)料、縫(feng)(feng)線的理想配合，必須選擇合適的縫(feng)(feng)針。
(六)整燙
針織服裝通過整燙(tang)使(shi)其外觀平整、尺寸準足。熨燙(tang)時在衣內套入襯板使(shi)產品保持一定的(de)(de)形狀和規(gui)格(ge)，襯板的(de)(de)尺寸比成衣所要求的(de)(de)略大些(xie)，以防回縮(suo)后(hou)規(gui)格(ge)過小(xiao)。熨燙(tang)的(de)(de)溫度(du)一般控(kong)制(zhi)在180℃～200℃之間較為安(an)全(quan)，不(bu)易(yi)燙(tang)黃、焦化(hua)。
(七)成(cheng)品檢驗
成品檢(jian)驗是(shi)產品出廠前(qian)的(de)一(yi)次綜(zong)合性檢(jian)驗，包括外(wai)(wai)觀(guan)(guan)質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)和(he)內(nei)在(zai)質(zhi)(zhi)量(liang)兩(liang)大項目，外(wai)(wai)觀(guan)(guan)檢(jian)驗內(nei)容有(you)尺寸公差、外(wai)(wai)觀(guan)(guan)疵點、縫(feng)跡牢度等。內(nei)在(zai)檢(jian)測項目有(you)面料單位(wei)面積重(zhong)量(liang)、色牢度、縮(suo)水率(lv)等。
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